Last updated 2026-07-25

TL;DR
Alfalfa is a high-protein perennial that deer love, but it's picky: it wants pH 6.5 to 7.0, well-drained soil, and full sun, and it takes 2-3 years to establish well. Most food plotters get more forgiving results from clover in the same soil conditions, though alfalfa can outperform it on the right ground.
what is a food plot, and where does alfalfa fit in?
A food plot is a planted area on hunting or wildlife ground meant to feed deer (and often other wildlife) and, for hunters, to concentrate deer activity for observation or harvest. Plots range from quarter-acre kill plots tucked into timber to multi-acre agricultural-style fields planted in rotation with row crops. Alfalfa (Medicago sativa) is a perennial legume, the same family as clover, and it's one of the highest-protein forages you can plant for deer, often tested at 20-25% crude protein in vegetative growth stages according to forage quality data compiled by university agronomy programs [1]. It's a mainstay of commercial hay and dairy operations, which tells you something: it's a serious, input-hungry crop, not a plant-and-forget cover crop. For food plotters, alfalfa usually gets planted as a perennial forage plot, something meant to feed deer spring through fall for several years running, not a single-season annual like brassicas or cereal grains. If you've got the right dirt for it, few plants pump out more tonnage of protein-rich forage per acre. If you don't have the right dirt, alfalfa will frustrate you every year you grow it. For a broader look at picking the right plant for your ground, see food plot seed and deer food plot seed.
do deer like alfalfa, and is it really a favorite food?
Yes, deer readily eat alfalfa, and in agricultural regions where it's grown commercially, deer treat established alfalfa fields as a go-to food source spring through fall. Wildlife research and extension literature consistently list alfalfa among the preferred forages for whitetail deer, alongside clover and soybeans, largely because of its protein content and digestibility during the growing season [1]. So what are deer's favorite foods overall? There's no single universal answer because it shifts by season and region, but the short list that shows up again and again in deer nutrition research includes soft mast (acorns, apples), soybeans, clover, alfalfa, and browse species like honeysuckle and greenbrier. Acorns in particular get prioritized heavily in fall because of their fat content, something documented in whitetail nutrition studies from university wildlife programs [2]. Alfalfa's strongest window is usually late spring through summer, when does need protein for lactation and bucks need it for antler growth. It tends to go dormant or slow down in the coldest months, so it's not really a late-season food plot the way brassicas or cereal grains are.
do deer eat clover, and how does it compare to alfalfa?
| Ideal soil pH | 6.5-7.0 | 6.0-7.0 | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Drainage tolerance | Poor, needs well-drained soil | Better tolerance of heavier soil | ||||
| Stand life | 3-5 years with good management | 3-5 years, often longer with reseeding | Mowing/maintenance | More demanding, dislikes shade | More forgiving | |
| Shade tolerance | Low | Low to moderate | ||||
| Seeding cost per acre (rough) | Often higher than clover | Generally moderate | Both are worth considering. If you want a full rundown on clover specifically, deer food plots covers it in more depth. |
Yes, deer eat clover heavily, and for most food plotters, clover is the more practical perennial choice than alfalfa. Both are legumes, both fix nitrogen, both offer high protein forage, but clover (especially white clover varieties like Ladino) tolerates a wider range of soil pH, moisture, and mowing neglect than alfalfa does. Alfalfa wants pH 6.5 to 7.0, good drainage, and it does not tolerate standing water or heavy clay that stays wet. Clover, particularly red and white clover blends, will grow acceptably down into the low 6.0s and tolerates wetter, heavier soils better. If your soil test comes back at 6.0 or below and you're not excited about buying lime, clover is the safer bet. Here's a rough side by side based on common agronomic guidance from extension services: | Factor | Alfalfa | Clover (white/Ladino) |
when should you plant alfalfa for a deer food plot?
Alfalfa is best planted in early spring or late summer, and the right window depends heavily on your region. Spring seeding works once soil temperatures warm and the risk of hard frost has passed; late summer seeding (often called a "dormant" or late-summer planting) usually happens 6 to 8 weeks before your area's first killing frost so seedlings can establish some root mass before winter. Cooperative extension guidance for alfalfa establishment generally recommends spring planting from March through May in northern climates, or late-summer planting from mid-August through early September, giving the crop time to root before frost knocks back growth [3]. Planting too late in fall risks winterkill on young seedlings that haven't built enough root reserves. Because alfalfa is a perennial, you're really only planting it once every 3 to 5 years if it establishes well and you manage it. That's different from an annual clover or brassica plot you might replant yearly. If your plot calendar planning is broader than just alfalfa, our seasonal-calendars hub content and the general question of when to plant food plots for deer is worth reading before you commit acreage to a perennial.
when to plant food plots for deer generally, more than alfalfa
Food plot timing depends on whether you're planting a perennial (clover, alfalfa, chicory) or an annual (brassicas, cereal grains, soybeans), and on your USDA plant hardiness zone. Perennials generally go in spring or late summer; cool-season annuals like brassicas and cereal grains go in late summer for fall/winter hunting plots; warm-season annuals like soybeans and corn go in late spring after soil warms. A rough national framework, adjusted for your specific frost dates from your state extension office: - Spring plantings (perennials, soybeans, corn): mid-April through early June depending on latitude.
- Late summer/fall plantings (brassicas, cereal grains, clover, alfalfa): mid-July through early September, timed 6 to 10 weeks before first frost. Soil temperature and moisture matter more than the calendar date. A soil thermometer and your local extension frost date chart are the two best planning tools you own, better than any generic planting chart. State-level extension offices publish frost date tables specific to your county, which beats guessing from a national map [4].
when to plant oats for deer
Oats are a cool-season annual, and they're planted in late summer to early fall for a fall/winter deer food plot, typically 6 to 8 weeks before your area's first expected frost. In much of the Midwest and Northeast that lands from mid-August through mid-September; in the Deep South it can push into October [5]. Oats germinate fast and put on tender, palatable growth that deer hit hard in early fall, often before brassicas bulb up. They're also one of the most forgiving annuals for food plot beginners: cheap seed, fast germination, decent tolerance of average soil fertility. Oats don't handle deep cold as well as winter wheat or rye, so in far northern zones they may get killed off earlier in winter than a rye blend would. A lot of food plotters blend oats with clover or brassicas specifically because oats provide quick fall cover and tonnage while the slower perennial or brassica crop establishes underneath.
when to plant turnips for deer
Turnips are planted in mid to late summer, generally 90 to 100 days before your first hard frost, since turnips need that runway to bulb up and reach peak palatability by the time deer start keying on them in late fall and winter. In most of the whitetail's range that means planting between mid-July and early August [6]. Turnip greens get eaten first, often within weeks of germination. The bulbs themselves usually don't get hit hard until after a few hard frosts convert starches to sugars, which is why turnip plots often look untouched in October and then get hammered in December. If you plant too late, you get greens but no real bulb development, and you lose the late-season punch that makes turnips worth planting in the first place. Turnips pair well in a blend with oats and clover, giving you fast fall tonnage (oats), a longer-lived perennial base (clover), and a late-season bulb crop (turnips) all in one plot rotation.
do deer eat sorghum, and does it belong in a plot mix?
Yes, deer eat sorghum, particularly the grain heads, and it's more commonly used as a screening/cover crop or a supplemental grain component than a primary attractant plot. Grain sorghum (milo) produces a seed head deer and turkey both use, and it also grows tall enough to provide bedding or screening cover along plot edges. Sorghum is a warm-season annual, planted in late spring once soil temps hit roughly 60°F, similar timing to corn. It's more drought-tolerant than corn, which makes it a reasonable substitute on sandier or drier ground where corn struggles [7]. It's not typically a deer's first choice forage the way soybeans or clover are, so most food plotters use it as a mixed-planting or border crop rather than the main event. If screening and cover are part of your plot design goals alongside forage, sorghum earns a spot; if pure attraction and nutrition are the goal, it takes a back seat to legumes and brassicas.
do deer like honey, and does it matter for food plots?
There's no real connection between deer diet and honey in a food plot context; deer are herbivores that browse forbs, browse, mast, and agricultural crops, not sweet syrups. This question sometimes comes up confused with commercial deer attractant products, some of which use sugar-based or molasses-based scent formulas to draw deer to a bait pile or mineral site, separate from planted food plots. Worth flagging here: baiting and supplemental feeding rules vary a lot by state, and some states prohibit baiting for hunting purposes entirely or restrict it seasonally, including sugar or molasses-based attractants in some jurisdictions. Michigan, for example, has specific baiting restrictions tied to chronic wasting disease management zones . Before using any attractant product, whether honey-based, mineral, or otherwise, check your state wildlife agency's current baiting and feeding regulations, since they change year to year and by county in some CWD-affected areas.
how do you get soil right for alfalfa specifically?
Alfalfa is one of the least forgiving common food plot species for soil pH, and getting it wrong is the single most common reason alfalfa stands fail in their first year. Extension guidance consistently puts the target range at pH 6.5 to 7.0 for good nodulation and nitrogen fixation, and yields drop noticeably below pH 6.0. A soil test is not optional here the way it might be for a tougher, more forgiving crop like winter rye. Send a sample to your local extension lab or a private ag lab before you buy alfalfa seed. Your soil test report is the actual authority on how much lime and what fertilizer ratio your specific field needs; a generic plot plan can point you toward alfalfa as a species option, but only your lab results can tell you exactly how many tons of lime per acre your dirt needs to hit that 6.5-7.0 window. Lime takes months to fully react with soil, so if your test comes back low, plan on liming the fall or spring before you intend to seed alfalfa, not the same week. Extension soil test labs generally recommend applying lime 6 to 12 months ahead of planting for full pH correction to take effect. If your test comes back at 5.8 with heavy clay and poor drainage, that's a signal to plant clover instead and save yourself a few years of thin, weedy alfalfa stands. This is exactly the kind of soil-specific decision where a $99 Custom Food Plot Plan can help you translate a soil test into a species and seeding plan for your property, though the plan is general guidance built from your test numbers and location, not a substitute for your lab's specific lime and fertilizer recommendations.
what equipment and inputs does alfalfa actually need?
Alfalfa needs a firm, well-prepared seedbed, inoculated seed (or pre-inoculated seed from the bag), and a seeder capable of placing very small seed shallow, around 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep. Broadcasting onto a rough seedbed and hoping for the best gives you a much thinner stand than a proper drill or cultipacker-seeder pass. Because alfalfa is a legume, it fixes its own nitrogen once nodulation kicks in, so nitrogen fertilizer is largely unnecessary after establishment; phosphorus and potassium, plus that lime correction, matter more. Your soil test report will specify exact P and K rates for your field; alfalfa is a heavy potassium user compared to a lot of other food plot species, so don't skip that part of the test results. Mowing (or haying) alfalfa periodically through the growing season, roughly every 30 to 45 days depending on growth stage, keeps it from getting rank, woody, and less palatable, and it knocks back competing weeds. A brush mower or bush hog on a subcompact tractor handles this fine on food plot scale acreage. If you're weighing whether alfalfa is worth this level of upkeep versus a lower-maintenance perennial, the domain food plot seed and deer for food pages cover species comparisons that might change your mind.
how long does an alfalfa plot actually last, and is it worth the investment?
A well-established alfalfa stand typically produces good forage for 3 to 5 years before yield and stand density decline enough to warrant reseeding, according to standard agronomic guidance for alfalfa hay and forage production [3]. That's a real commitment of acreage and money up front, since alfalfa seed and establishment costs run higher than annual clover or brassica blends in most seed catalogs. The payoff, if your soil supports it, is a high-protein forage source that keeps producing spring through fall for years without replanting, cutting your annual seed and labor costs way down compared to replanting brassicas or cereal grains every single year. On the wrong soil (wet, acidic, heavy clay, shaded), alfalfa struggles, thins out fast, and you'll spend more money and time fighting it than you would just planting clover. Honest bottom line: alfalfa is worth planting if your soil test comes back in that 6.5-7.0 range, you've got full sun and decent drainage, and you're willing to mow it a few times a season. If any of those conditions aren't met, clover gets you 80% of the benefit with a lot less agronomic risk.
Frequently asked questions
Do deer eat sorghum in food plots?
Yes. Deer eat sorghum grain heads, and sorghum also works as cover and screening in a plot design. It's more often planted as a supplemental grain or border crop than a primary attractant, since deer generally prefer legumes and brassicas over sorghum when both are available.
Do deer eat clover, and is it better than alfalfa?
Deer eat clover heavily, and it's more forgiving than alfalfa on soil pH and drainage. Clover tolerates pH down into the low 6.0s and wetter ground better than alfalfa, which wants 6.5-7.0 and good drainage. For most plotters, clover is the lower-risk perennial choice.
When should you plant deer food plots?
Timing depends on species: perennials like clover and alfalfa go in spring or late summer, cool-season annuals like brassicas and cereal grains go in late summer 6-10 weeks before first frost, and warm-season annuals like soybeans go in after soil warms in late spring. Check your state extension's frost date chart.
Do deer like clover more than other food plot options?
Clover ranks among deer's most consistently preferred food plot forages, especially in spring and summer, largely due to its protein content and long growing season. Preference varies by region and food availability, but extension and wildlife research repeatedly list clover alongside soybeans and alfalfa as top forage choices.
When should you plant oats for a deer food plot?
Oats are planted 6 to 8 weeks before your area's first expected frost, typically mid-August through mid-September in the Midwest and Northeast, later in the South. Oats germinate fast and deer often hit them hard in early fall, before slower crops like brassicas mature.
When to plant turnips for deer food plots?
Plant turnips 90 to 100 days before your first hard frost, generally mid-July through early August in most whitetail range. Deer eat the greens first; bulbs become palatable after a few hard frosts convert starches to sugars, usually peaking in late fall and winter.
What is a food plot exactly?
A food plot is a planted area on hunting or wildlife land meant to feed deer or other wildlife and, for hunters, to draw and concentrate animal activity for observation or harvest. Plots range from small hidden kill plots to multi-acre agricultural-style fields in crop rotation.
What are deer's favorite foods overall?
There's no single answer since preference shifts by season and region, but research and extension sources consistently name acorns, soybeans, clover, alfalfa, and certain browse species as top choices. Acorns get heavily prioritized in fall due to fat content important for winter fat reserves.
Do deer like honey or sweet attractant products?
There's no established link between deer diet and honey; deer are herbivores that eat forbs, browse, mast, and crops. Some commercial attractants use sugar or molasses bases, but check your state wildlife agency's baiting rules first, since many states restrict or ban baiting and attractant use, especially in CWD zones.
What pH does alfalfa need for a deer food plot?
Alfalfa needs soil pH between 6.5 and 7.0 for good growth and nitrogen fixation, according to standard extension forage guidance. Yields drop noticeably below pH 6.0. A current soil test from your local extension lab is the only reliable way to know your field's actual number.
How long does an alfalfa food plot stand last?
A well-managed alfalfa stand typically produces good forage for 3 to 5 years before thinning enough to warrant reseeding. That's longer than most annual food plot crops, which need replanting every year, making alfalfa a bigger up-front investment but a lower annual cost if your soil supports it.
Can you mix alfalfa with clover in the same plot?
Yes, alfalfa and clover blends are common and give you clover's soil tolerance as a backup where alfalfa struggles, plus alfalfa's higher yield potential where conditions are good. Many commercial food plot perennial blends already combine the two for exactly this reason.
Sources
- USDA NRCS Plant Guide, Alfalfa (Medicago sativa): Alfalfa crude protein content and its role as a preferred wildlife forage
- University of Wisconsin-Madison Extension, Alfalfa Establishment: Alfalfa planting windows in spring and late summer, and typical 3-5 year stand life
- NOAA National Centers for Environmental Information, Frost/Freeze Data: Regional frost date data used to time food plot plantings
- University of Kentucky Extension, Cool-Season Forages for Wildlife Food Plots: Oats are planted 6-8 weeks before first frost for fall deer food plots
- University of Tennessee Extension, Brassicas for Deer Food Plots: Turnips are planted roughly 90-100 days before first frost for bulb development
- Purdue University Extension, Grain Sorghum Production: Sorghum planting timing and its drought tolerance relative to corn
- Michigan Department of Natural Resources, Baiting and Feeding Regulations: Michigan restricts baiting and feeding of deer, particularly in CWD management zones