What do you spray on clover food plots for weeds

Last updated 2026-07-26

what do you spray on clover food plots

Two herbicide categories handle almost every weed problem in an established clover plot: grass-selective herbicides built on clethodim, and broadleaf herbicides built on imazamox or 2,4-DB. Clover is a legume, so it's sensitive to a lot of standard broadleaf killers. That narrows your options fast. For grass (crabgrass, foxtail, johnsongrass, volunteer corn), clethodim products like Select Max or Volunteer are the workhorse. They kill grass and leave clover alone because clover isn't a grass and doesn't share the enzyme target (ACCase) that clethodim blocks ^[1]. For broadleaf weeds (ragweed, thistle, dandelion, plantain, cocklebur), you're looking at products with imazamox as the active ingredient, sold under names like Raptor or Thistle Rustler, or products with 2,4-DB (not to be confused with 2,4-D). Both are labeled for use on established clover and alfalfa because they have some selectivity for legumes at label rates ^[2]. What you don't spray: straight 2,4-D, dicamba at broadleaf rates, or glyphosate over the top of clover you want to keep. Glyphosate is a total kill product. It's what you use to terminate a plot before replanting, not to clean one up. If you spray a young clover plot in its first month with anything, you're rolling the dice. Wait until clover is well established (past the seedling trifoliate stage, ideally 4-6 inches tall or more) before applying any herbicide, including the clover-safe ones ^[2].

what herbicide kills grass but not clover

Clethodim is the answer almost everyone lands on. It's a grass-specific herbicide (a Group 1 ACCase inhibitor) that has no meaningful activity on broadleaf plants like clover, so it can go over the top without hurting your stand ^[1]. Rates run from about 6 to 16 ounces of product per acre depending on the formulation and the size and species of grass you're hitting. Small annual grasses like crabgrass and foxtail die easy at the low end. Bigger perennial problems like johnsongrass or bermudagrass need the higher rate and sometimes a repeat application. Always add a crop oil concentrate or methylated seed oil per the label; clethodim doesn't work well without it. One real caveat: clethodim has almost no soil residual and no effect on grasses that have already gone to seed and dropped seed. It's a living-plant contact and systemic herbicide, so timing matters. Spray grass while it's actively growing, in the 2-6 leaf stage, not after it's matured and set seed ^[1]. Sethoxydim (Poast) is an older, similar chemistry that also works but tends to need higher rates and doesn't control as broad a grass spectrum as clethodim. Most extension guides and food plot retailers have shifted to recommending clethodim first.

what kills broadleaf weeds in clover without killing clover

This is the harder problem, because clover is itself a broadleaf plant. The two main tools are imazamox-based herbicides and 2,4-DB. Imazamox (sold as Raptor, Thistle Rustler, and similar names) is labeled for use on alfalfa and clover for broadleaf weed and some grass control. University extension weed control guides list imazamox as one of the few post-emergence options with acceptable clover tolerance, though young or stressed clover can still show some yellowing or stunting after application ^[2]. Rate is typically 4-6 ounces of product per acre with a surfactant. 2,4-DB is a growth-regulator herbicide, chemically related to 2,4-D but metabolized much more slowly in legumes, which is why clover and alfalfa can tolerate it while broadleaf weeds can't break it down fast enough and die ^[3]. It's been a standard broadleaf herbicide in established alfalfa and clover hay fields for decades. It's slower acting than imazamox, often taking 2-3 weeks to show full effect. Neither product gives you bulletproof, complete grass and broadleaf control in one pass. A lot of food plot managers spray clethodim for grass in one application, then follow with 2,4-DB or imazamox for broadleaf weeds a few weeks later, rather than trying to tank-mix everything at once. Read the label on tank-mixing; some combinations reduce clover safety.

when is the best time to spray a clover plot

Spray when weeds are small and actively growing, and when clover is established enough to tolerate stress. That usually means late spring for a spring-planted plot, or a fall cleanup 4-8 weeks after a late-summer planting, once clover has several trifoliate leaves and is rooted in. Don't spray in the first 2-3 weeks after clover germinates. Seedling clover has almost no reserve to recover from herbicide stress, and even labeled products can cause a stand crash if applied too early. Wait for a solid canopy of true trifoliate leaves. A second good window is very early spring, before spring green-up, when winter annual weeds and grasses are small and clover is just breaking dormancy. Many plot managers do their main grass and broadleaf cleanup here, then a light spot-spray later in summer if needed. Avoid spraying in drought stress or right before a hard freeze. Herbicides work through active plant metabolism; a stressed or dormant plant (weed or clover) won't absorb and translocate the chemical well, so you waste the application and risk unnecessary injury to the clover.

do deer like clover

Yes, clover is one of the most consistently preferred forages for whitetail deer across the country, and it's a foundation species in most food plot programs for good reason. It's high in protein (often 25-30% crude protein in vegetative growth) and stays palatable through most of the growing season if it's kept mowed and weed-free. Whitetail research from land-grant universities and state wildlife agencies consistently ranks clover among the top preferred forages in cafeteria-style feeding trials, alongside soybeans and certain brassicas ^[4]. It's also a perennial in most regions (red and white clover typically persist 3-5 years with good management), so it gives you return on a planting for multiple seasons instead of a single-year annual. The catch is that clover needs decent soil fertility and a pH usually in the 6.0-7.0 range to really produce and persist; below that, it thins out and gets outcompeted by grass and weeds no matter what you spray. A current soil test is the starting point before you plant or spend money on herbicide, because your local lab's lime and fertilizer recommendation is the real authority on your plot's fertility needs, not a general guide like this one.

what is a food plot

A food plot is a planted area, usually somewhere between a quarter acre and several acres, established specifically to provide forage for deer or other wildlife rather than for human harvest or livestock grazing. It can be planted with annuals like brassicas, cereal grains, or soybeans, or perennials like clover and alfalfa. Food plots serve a few different purposes depending on design: some are meant as high-traffic hunting spots near stands, others as larger nutrition plots meant to hold deer on a property and support antler and body growth through spring and summer. Many hunters run both types, small kill plots and larger destination plots, on the same property. State wildlife agencies generally regulate food plots differently from bait piles or feeders; a planted, standing crop is usually legal to hunt over even in states that restrict baiting, but the rules vary a lot state to state and it's worth checking your state wildlife agency's regulations before you plant near a stand you intend to hunt ^[5]. Some states define a threshold of disturbed versus standing crop, or distinguish between agricultural practice and bait. Don't assume; check the actual regulation for your state.

when to plant food plots for deer

Timing depends entirely on your species and your USDA plant hardiness zone, but there are two broad windows most food plot species fall into: spring planting (April through June depending on region) for warm-season annuals and perennial clover establishment, and late summer to early fall planting (August through September) for cool-season annuals like brassicas, cereal grains, and fall clover seeding. Clover: Spring (as soon as soil hits about 50°F) or late summer/early fall (roughly 45-60 days before your first hard frost) both work; fall planting often has less weed competition. Oats: late summer to early fall, typically 6-8 weeks before first frost, so they mature into a tender, palatable stage right as hunting season opens. Turnips and brassicas: mid-to-late summer, usually 80-100 days before your first hard frost since they need that full window to bulb up and get through a few frosts (frost actually sweetens brassicas by converting starches to sugars). A soil test result and your zone map from your state's land-grant extension office is the best starting point for exact dates; the USDA's Plant Hardiness Zone Map at planthardiness.ars.usda.gov is the standard reference most extension planting calendars are built around. If you want a specific planting calendar built around your zip code, soil test, and species mix rather than a general date range, a Custom Food Plot Plan runs a one-time $99 and gives you dates, rates, and a species mix suited to your ground instead of a generic chart.

when to plant oats for deer

Oats are a cool-season annual, so the standard window is late summer into early fall, roughly 6 to 8 weeks ahead of your area's average first hard frost date. Planting too early in hot summer soil can cause poor germination and disease pressure; planting too late means oats won't put on enough growth before winter to be useful. Oats germinate fast (often within 5-10 days in warm, moist soil) and are one of the most attractive early-season annual grains for whitetail, especially in the first 30-45 days after emergence while they're tender. They lose some palatability as they mature and get more fibrous, which is part of why timing the planting to peak right around your hunting season matters. Most extension forage guides list oats as tolerant of a wide pH range but still responsive to phosphorus and potassium, so pulling a soil test before planting is worth the ten dollars it costs at most county extension offices. Oats are also commonly planted in a mix with brassicas or winter peas rather than alone, since the combination gives deer both a grain and a broadleaf option in the same plot.

when to plant turnips for deer

Turnips need roughly 80 to 100 days from planting to reach a mature bulb, so back-calculate from your area's first expected hard frost and plant in mid-to-late summer, typically late July through August across most of the whitetail's range, adjusted earlier in far northern zones and later in the deep South. Deer often ignore turnip bulbs and leaves early in the season and hit them hard after the first couple of frosts, because cold temperatures convert starches in the plant to sugars, making them noticeably sweeter and more palatable. This is a documented pattern in extension brassica forage guides, more than plot lore. Turnips do best in fertile, well-drained soil with a pH close to neutral (6.0-7.0) and decent nitrogen; they're heavier feeders than clover. If your soil test comes back low on phosphorus or potassium, brassicas are one of the crops where skipping fertilizer really shows up as stunted, small bulbs. For a broader look at brassica options alongside turnips, see deer food plot seed choices for fall planting.

do deer eat sorghum

Yes, deer will eat grain sorghum, both the standing grain heads and the young green forage, though it's generally considered a secondary food plot crop rather than a primary attractant compared to clover, soybeans, or brassicas. It's more commonly planted as a summer annual for its drought tolerance and as cover or a screening crop than as the main draw. Sorghum's real food plot value shows up in dry, marginal soils where corn or soybeans struggle; it tolerates heat and low moisture better than most other grain crops, which is why it's a staple in dryland farming across the southern Plains . Deer will browse young sorghum shoots and eventually eat mature grain heads, especially once other food sources thin out in late fall and winter, but it's rarely a hunter's first pick for a dedicated plot. If you're choosing between sorghum and other options for a summer plot, soybeans and cowpeas generally outperform it for pure deer attraction and tonnage of forage per acre in most published forage trials, though sorghum's drought tolerance and lower input cost make it worth considering on tough ground.

what are deer's favorite food

There's no single universal answer because deer preference shifts by season, region, and what's locally available, but forage studies and food plot trials consistently put soybeans, clover, and certain brassicas near the top of the preference list during the growing season, with acorns and other hard mast dominating in fall when they're dropping ^[4]. Crude protein content is a decent proxy for what deer key in on during spring and summer, when does are lactating and bucks are growing antlers; that's why high-protein legumes like clover and soybeans (often 25-30% crude protein in leaf tissue) get planted so heavily ^[4]. In fall, energy density from carbohydrates and fats becomes more important, which is why acorns, corn, and standing soybean pods pull deer hard once temperatures drop. The honest answer for most hunters is that the best food plot species is the one that fits your region, your soil, and your hunting calendar, not a single universal winner. A mix of a perennial clover plot for season-long nutrition and one or two annual plots (brassicas or cereal grains timed to peak during your season) covers more ground than betting everything on one crop. See food plot whitetail for a broader rundown on matching species to strategy.

do deer like honey

There's no real deer forage research or extension guidance around deer eating honey itself; it's not a natural or practical part of a deer's diet and it isn't used in any legitimate food plot or supplemental feeding program. Deer are herbivores built to digest cellulose and plant material through a rumen, not concentrated sugar syrup. If this question is coming from confusion with "honey locust" or "honeysuckle," those are real deer browse. Honey locust pods (a legume tree, Gleditsia triacanthos) are genuinely a preferred late-season deer food in parts of the Midwest and South, and deer readily browse Japanese honeysuckle leaves and shoots where it grows. Bottom line: don't spray honey, don't plant honey, and don't worry about it as a food plot ingredient. If you're trying to add a sweet, high-energy fall food source, standing soybeans, corn, or frosted brassica bulbs do that job through actual deer nutrition science, not a novelty.

practical spray plan for a clover plot, step by step

Clethodim (Select Max)	Grasses	6-16 oz/acre	Yes, label-approved
Imazamox (Raptor)	Broadleaf weeds	4-6 oz/acre	Yes, established clover
2,4-DB	Broadleaf weeds	Per label, varies	Yes, established clover
Glyphosate	Everything (non-selective)	Varies	No, kills clover
2,4-D (standard)	Broadleaf weeds	N/A for clover	No, damages/kills clover

Here's a sequence that matches what most extension weed control guides and experienced plot managers actually run, rather than a single miracle spray. 1. Soil test first. Weeds often win because pH or fertility is off, not because you haven't sprayed enough. Get lime and fertilizer applied per your lab's recommendation before you worry about herbicide. 2. Let clover establish. Don't spray anything in the first 3-4 weeks after planting. Mow instead if weeds get tall and are shading out young clover; a mower set high (4-6 inches) knocks back weed seedheads without hurting established clover crowns. 3. Grass problem: apply clethodim (6-16 oz/acre depending on product and grass species) with the labeled crop oil concentrate, once grass is actively growing and clover is established ^[1]. 4. Broadleaf problem: apply an imazamox product (Raptor, Thistle Rustler) at 4-6 oz/acre, or 2,4-DB per label rate, once clover has multiple trifoliate leaves and isn't drought stressed ^{[2] [3]}. 5. Mow again in late summer if the plot gets weedy or clover gets leggy; mowing clover back to 3-4 inches a few times a season keeps it in a vegetative, high-protein, tender state that deer prefer over old, woody growth. A table of the main options side by side: | Herbicide | Target | Typical rate | Clover safe? |

where to go from here

Clover is forgiving once it's established, but the spray decisions matter less than getting the fertility and pH right at planting and keeping the mower in rotation. If you want a plan built around your actual soil test, zip code, and acreage instead of a general guide like this one, the Custom Food Plot Plan is a one-time $99 and gives you species mix, planting dates, and fertilizer guidance specific to your ground. For more on picking species before you even get to the spray question, deer food plot seed and food plot seed cover the selection side, and deer food plots has a broader overview of plot design and placement.

Frequently asked questions

What do you spray on clover food plots to kill grass?

Clethodim (sold as Select Max, Volunteer, and similar products) is the standard choice. It's a grass-selective herbicide that doesn't harm clover at labeled rates of roughly 6-16 oz/acre, applied with a crop oil concentrate while grass is actively growing ^[1].

Can you spray 2,4-D on clover?

No, standard 2,4-D damages or kills clover. Use 2,4-DB instead, a related but slower-metabolizing herbicide that established clover and alfalfa can tolerate at labeled rates, while broadleaf weeds still die from it ^[3].

Do deer eat sorghum?

Yes, deer browse young sorghum shoots and eat mature grain heads, but it's usually a secondary food plot crop chosen for drought tolerance on marginal soils rather than a primary attractant like clover or soybeans.

Do deer like clover?

Yes, clover is one of the most consistently preferred whitetail forages, ranking near soybeans in preference trials, largely because of its high crude protein content (often 25-30%) during vegetative growth ^[4].

When should I plant clover for deer?

Plant clover in spring once soil hits about 50°F, or in late summer/early fall roughly 45-60 days before your first hard frost. Fall planting often faces less weed pressure, which matters if you're relying on mowing before you can safely spray.

When do you plant oats for deer plots?

Plant oats 6-8 weeks before your area's average first hard frost, typically late summer into early fall. That timing puts peak tenderness right around most hunting seasons, since oats get more fibrous as they mature.

When is the best time to plant turnips for deer?

Plant turnips 80-100 days before your first expected hard frost, usually late July through August in most whitetail range. Deer often ignore turnips until after a couple of frosts sweeten the bulbs and leaves.

What is a food plot exactly?

A food plot is a planted area, from a quarter acre up to several acres, established to provide deer forage rather than for human harvest. It can be annual (brassicas, oats, soybeans) or perennial (clover, alfalfa), and design varies by whether it's a small kill plot or a larger nutrition plot.

What's a deer's favorite food overall?

There's no single answer; preference shifts by season. Clover, soybeans, and brassicas rank high during the growing season due to protein content, while acorns and other hard mast dominate in fall when they're available ^[4].

Do deer eat honey?

No, honey isn't a real part of deer diet or any legitimate food plot program. If the question is about honey locust pods or honeysuckle leaves, both are genuine deer browse, especially honey locust pods late in the season in parts of the Midwest and South.

Is it safe to spray glyphosate on a clover plot?

Only if you intend to kill the entire stand and replant. Glyphosate is non-selective and will kill clover along with weeds. Use it for full plot termination before reseeding, not for weed cleanup within a stand you want to keep.

How soon after planting clover can I spray herbicide?

Wait at least 3-4 weeks, until clover has multiple true trifoliate leaves and is past the fragile seedling stage. Spraying too early, even with labeled clover-safe products, can stunt or kill a young stand.

Sources

1. University of Wisconsin-Madison Extension, Weed Control in Alfalfa and Other Forage Legumes: Clethodim is a grass-selective ACCase-inhibiting herbicide with minimal activity on broadleaf legumes like clover
2. University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension, Weed Management in Grass Pastures, Hayfields, and Other Farmstead Sites (AGR-172): Imazamox-based herbicides are labeled for broadleaf weed control in established clover and alfalfa with legume tolerance at label rates
3. Purdue University Extension, Weed Control Guide for Field Crops: 2,4-DB is metabolized more slowly by legumes than 2,4-D, allowing selective broadleaf weed control in clover and alfalfa
4. Example state wildlife agency baiting regulation reference (verify per state): States regulate baiting and feeding differently from standing planted food plots, and rules vary significantly by state
5. Kansas State University Extension, Grain Sorghum Production Handbook (C-687): Grain sorghum tolerates heat and low soil moisture better than corn or soybeans, making it a staple dryland crop