Biologic food plots: what they are and how to plant them

Last updated 2026-07-25

what is a food plot, exactly

A food plot is a planted area of forage or grain, usually somewhere between a quarter acre and a few acres, established specifically to feed and hold deer or other wildlife on a property. It's not a garden and it's not a crop field meant for harvest, though the agronomy overlaps a lot with row-crop farming. Most hunters plant food plots to improve deer nutrition, concentrate late-season activity near a stand, or extend the window when deer show up during shooting light. The term "biologic" gets used in the industry mostly as marketing language for branded seed blends (Biologic is actually a seed company brand name, owned by Mossy Oak) but it's also used loosely to mean any living, planted food source as opposed to mineral supplements, trail feeders, or protein pellets. For this article, we're using it the general way: a planted, growing food plot. Food plots range from small hidden "kill plots" tucked a few hundred yards off a bedding area, to large "destination" or "feeding" plots of 3 to 5 acres meant to hold deer through the winter. Both types matter, but they're planted differently and often with different species. A half-acre clover plot near a stand works completely differently than a 3-acre standing corn field left for late-season cover and calories. Check food plot whitetail strategy if you're deciding between a kill plot and a destination plot for your specific ground.

when to plant food plots for deer

Deep South (zone 8-9)	March-April	September-October
Mid-South / Transition (zone 7)	April-May	August-September
Midwest / Upper South (zone 5-6)	May	July-August
Northern tier (zone 3-4)	Late May-June	Mid-July-August	These are general windows, not guarantees. Always confirm against your local extension office's frost date data and adjust based on the actual weather that season. For a full breakdown by species and zone, see deer food plots.

Timing depends entirely on what you're planting and where you live, but the two big windows are early spring (April to May in most of the country) for warm-season annuals and perennials, and late summer to early fall (mid-July through September) for cool-season annuals like brassicas and cereal grains. Spring plantings include clover, chicory, and warm-season grains like soybeans or sorghum. These need soil temperatures consistently above 50-55°F to germinate well, which usually means waiting until after your last frost date. The USDA Cooperative Extension System publishes county-level planting calendars through land-grant universities, and your local extension office is the single best source for your exact frost dates. Fall food plots (brassicas, oats, wheat, rye, winter peas) get planted 60 to 90 days before your area's first hard frost. That gives plants enough time to establish a root system and put on leaf growth before cold weather. Plant too early in hot, dry August soil and you risk poor germination; plant too late and plants won't size up before deer season or before frost kills them back. A rough national planting calendar looks like this: | Region | Spring plot window | Fall plot window |

do deer like clover, and is it worth planting

Yes. Clover is one of the most consistently used food plot forages in the whitetail world, and it's backed by real nutrition data, more than anecdote. Ladino and red clover both run high in crude protein, commonly 20-25% in vegetative growth, and they're a preferred forage across most of the whitetail's range. Clover's biggest advantage is that it's a perennial. Plant it right (correct pH, good seed-to-soil contact, mowed a couple times a season to keep it from getting stemmy) and a stand can produce for 3 to 5 years before you need to reseed. That makes it one of the better costs-per-year options compared to reseeding an annual plot every single year. The catch is soil pH. Clover is picky. It wants a pH in the 6.0 to 7.0 range, and most extension guidance recommends liming well ahead of planting because lime takes months to fully react in soil ^[1]. If your soil test comes back at 5.2, don't expect a clover plot to perform even with perfect seed and fertilizer. You'll be feeding weeds, not deer. Whitetail's actual favorite forage varies by region, season, and what's already available on the landscape. Acorns, honeysuckle, agricultural soybeans, and native forbs often out-rank planted clover in raw preference studies, but clover remains one of the most practical, plantable, high-protein options a hunter can control directly.

what are deer's favorite foods overall

There's no single universal answer, deer preference shifts by season, region, and what's locally available, but research and decades of hunter observation point to a consistent short list: acorns (especially white oak group acorns, which are lower in tannins and more palatable than red oak acorns), soybeans, clover, and other legumes, plus browse like honeysuckle, greenbrier, and forbs. Acorns are frequently the single most preferred fall food when they're dropping heavily, deer will often abandon a food plot entirely during a good acorn year. This is well documented in whitetail nutrition research from state wildlife agencies and university deer programs. Soybeans (whether ag fields or food plot beans) rank extremely high too, both as a summer browse and as a fall grain source once pods dry down. Bottom line: deer preference is opportunistic and seasonal. A food plot's job isn't to be the deer's single favorite food on the landscape, it's to be a reliable, controllable, nutritious option that's there when acorns aren't, and one that pulls deer to a spot where you can hunt them.

do deer eat sorghum

Yes, deer eat grain sorghum (milo), both the standing seed heads in fall and winter, and the green forage earlier in the season. Sorghum is drought-tolerant and often planted in food plot blends specifically for its late-season standing grain value and cover, similar to how corn is used. It's not usually a deer's first choice compared to soybeans or acorns, but it holds value as a late-winter energy source once softer forages are gone, and the standing stalks provide thermal cover in open country. Sorghum is a common component in commercial fall/winter blend bags marketed for deer, often paired with soybeans, sunflowers, or corn. One practical note: sorghum (and any standing grain left in a field specifically to attract game) can brush up against state baiting and supplemental feeding regulations in some states, especially if it's harvested and piled rather than left standing as a planted crop. Standing food plots are legal to hunt over in the overwhelming majority of states, but rules on baiting, feeding, and even what counts as a "food plot" versus a "bait pile" vary significantly. Check your state wildlife agency's current regulations before you plant or hunt over any grain plot ^[2].

when to plant oats for deer

Oats are a fall cool-season annual, plant them 45 to 60 days before your first expected frost so they have time to establish before growth slows. In most of the whitetail range that means a window from late August through September, earlier in the north, later in the deep south. Oats germinate fast (often within 7 to 10 days with decent soil moisture) and put on tender, palatable forage almost immediately, which is why they're a staple in fall food plot blends and why deer often hit a fresh oat plot within days of it coming up. They're also relatively cheap seed compared to brassica blends, which makes them a good option for larger acreage. Oats are not cold-hardy compared to winter wheat or rye. A hard freeze in the 20s can kill oats back for the season, while wheat and rye will often keep growing (or at least survive) into much colder temperatures. If you're in a northern climate and want forage that lasts deep into winter, blend oats with wheat, rye, or triticale rather than planting oats alone. Extension variety trial data from land-grant universities can help you pick a regionally adapted oat variety rather than a generic bag off a shelf.

when to plant turnips for deer (and other brassicas)

Turnips and other brassicas (radishes, rape, kale) are planted in late summer, roughly 70 to 90 days before your first hard frost, because these plants need that runway to bulb out and reach peak palatability. Plant a turnip in June in most of the whitetail range and it'll bolt, go to seed, or just get eaten down before it ever forms a bulb. Brassicas have a well-known quirk: deer often ignore them for the first several weeks after emergence, then hammer them hard once a couple of frosts hit. Cold temperatures convert starches in the leaves and bulbs to sugars, making the plant noticeably sweeter, and that's usually when brassica plots go from untouched to stripped in a matter of days. This frost-triggered palatability shift is one of the most consistent patterns extension and wildlife biologists reference in food plot brassica guidance. A practical fall planting target: mid-July to mid-August in the upper Midwest and Northeast, August into early September in the transition zone, and September in the deep south. Brassicas also want a fertile, well-drained soil and a pH close to 6.0-6.5, similar to most other plot species, so a current soil test still matters here even though brassicas are somewhat more pH-tolerant than clover ^[3].

do deer like honey (or anything sugar-sweet)

Deer don't seek out honey the way people assume, they're not drawn to concentrated sugar sources like bears are, and there's no real evidence deer target honey or honeycomb in the wild. This question shows up a lot online, likely confused with bear attractant use or with sweetened mineral/protein products marketed for deer. What deer do respond to is natural sugar content in forage, which is exactly why brassicas get sweeter and more attractive after a frost (starch converting to sugar), and why deer key in on high-sugar mast like persimmons and honey locust pods in fall. If you see "sweetener" or molasses-based additives in a commercial mineral or feed product, that's aimed at palatability of a mineral lick, not a food plot forage, and it has nothing to do with honey specifically. If you're trying to boost a plot's attraction, frost timing on brassicas and picking high-sugar forage varieties will do far more than any additive.

how do you actually start: soil testing basics

Every serious food plot conversation starts with a soil test, and this is genuinely the step most first-time planters skip and later regret. A basic soil test tells you your current pH, along with phosphorus, potassium, and sometimes organic matter, and it's the only reliable way to know how much lime and fertilizer your specific dirt actually needs. Most land-grant university extension offices run soil tests for a modest fee, often in the $8 to $20 range depending on the state and the panel requested, and results typically include specific lime and fertilizer recommendations in pounds per acre for the crop you tell them you're planting ^[4]. This beats guessing, and it beats a generic "apply X bags per acre" number on a seed bag, because your soil's actual buffer pH and nutrient levels are unique to your dirt. Your soil test lab is the authority on how much lime and fertilizer your plot needs. A general planting guide (including this one) can tell you what species need what pH range and what planting window works in your zone, but it cannot replace a lab result specific to your field. If your test comes back needing 2 tons of lime per acre, that's not optional information, apply it, ideally months before planting since lime takes time to move pH. A $99 Custom Food Plot Plan (available at /plot-plan-builder) can take your soil test results and property details and turn them into a specific seed, lime, and fertilizer plan for your ground, which saves the trial-and-error most first-year planters go through. But even without a custom plan, get the test done first. It's the cheapest, highest-value step in the entire process.

what equipment do you actually need

You don't need a tractor to plant a good food plot, but you do need a way to kill existing vegetation, break up soil, get seed-to-soil contact, and pack the seed in. A lot of small plots (under an acre) get planted successfully with an ATV or UTV, a small disc or cultipacker, a broadcast spreader, and a sprayer for burndown herbicide. For brassicas and clover, which have small seeds, seed-to-soil contact matters more than planting depth, these seeds want to be barely covered, often a quarter inch or less, and a cultipacker or drag after broadcasting does the job. Cereal grains and larger seeds like sorghum or soybeans want to be drilled or covered closer to an inch deep. A basic starter kit for a small plot: a rotary mower or brush hog for site prep, a broadcast spreader (hand-crank ones work fine under an acre), a way to disturb the soil surface (disc, harrow, or even a drag made from a chain-link fence section), and a sprayer for glyphosate or another labeled burndown product ahead of planting. Extension weed science programs publish current herbicide labels and rates, always follow the product label exactly since rates and pre-harvest/grazing intervals matter for wildlife food safety ^[5].

how big should a food plot be

There's no single right answer, plot size depends on your goal (kill plot versus destination plot), your available cleared ground, and how much pressure the property gets. Kill plots (meant to be hunted directly, often bowhunted) commonly run a quarter acre to half an acre, small enough to keep deer close and calm, tucked near bedding with good wind approach options. Destination or feeding plots meant to hold deer through the season and provide bulk tonnage of forage commonly run 1 to 5 acres or more. Bigger plots also spread out browse pressure, a half-acre clover plot on a property with 40 deer can get grazed down to nothing by August, while a 3-acre plot absorbs that pressure better. Many experienced plotters run a mix: one or two small, secluded kill plots close to stands, and one or two larger plots elsewhere on the property purely for nutrition and holding power. If you're short on cleared acreage, prioritize the kill plot locations first since that's where the hunting actually happens.

what to plant where: quick species-to-goal guide

Early season attraction	Soybeans, cowpeas, clover	Spring
Perennial, low-maintenance plot	Clover, chicory, alfalfa	Spring
Late season / post-frost sweetness	Brassicas (turnips, radish, rape)	Late summer
Standing winter grain and cover	Corn, sorghum	Spring
Fast-growing fall green browse	Oats, winter wheat, rye	Late summer/fall
Cold-hardy, long-lasting fall forage	Winter wheat, rye, triticale	Late summer/fall	For blends and specific bag recommendations by region, deer food plot seed and food plot seed break down commercial mixes in more depth. If you're weighing a straight species planting against a bagged blend, domain food plot seed covers that tradeoff too.

Different species solve different problems, and most experienced plotters run more than one species across a property rather than betting everything on a single seed bag. | Goal | Best species | Planting season |

Frequently asked questions

Do deer eat sorghum?

Yes. Deer eat both the green forage and the mature grain heads of sorghum (milo), and it's a common component in fall and winter food plot blends because it's drought-tolerant and provides standing grain and cover into late winter. It's generally not a top preference compared to soybeans or acorns but adds real late-season value.

Do deer like clover?

Yes, clover is one of the most reliably used food plot forages for whitetail, running roughly 20-25% crude protein in vegetative growth. Ladino and red clover are both common choices. Success depends heavily on soil pH (aim for 6.0-7.0) since clover performs poorly in acidic soil regardless of seed quality.

When should I plant food plots for deer?

It depends on the species. Spring annuals and perennials (clover, soybeans, sorghum) go in after your last frost, typically April-May in most regions. Fall annuals (brassicas, oats, wheat) go in 45-90 days before your first hard frost, usually mid-July through September depending on latitude. Check your county extension office for exact local frost dates.

When should I plant oats for deer?

Plant oats 45 to 60 days before your area's first expected frost, generally late August through September across most of the whitetail range. Oats germinate quickly, often within 7-10 days, but aren't very cold-hardy, so blend with wheat or rye if you need forage to survive deep into winter.

When should I plant turnips for deer food plots?

Plant turnips and other brassicas 70 to 90 days before your first hard frost, typically mid-July through early September depending on your region. Brassicas need that time to bulb out before cold weather. Deer often ignore brassicas until after a few frosts sweeten the leaves and bulbs through a starch-to-sugar conversion.

What is a food plot?

A food plot is a planted area of forage, grain, or a seed blend, typically a quarter acre to several acres, established on hunting land to feed and hold deer or other wildlife. It's distinct from mineral supplements or feeders, it's a living, growing crop planted specifically for wildlife nutrition and hunting strategy.

What are deer's favorite foods?

Preference shifts by season and region, but acorns (especially white oak group), soybeans, clover and other legumes, and browse like honeysuckle and greenbrier consistently rank high. During a heavy acorn year, deer will often abandon planted food plots entirely in favor of mast on the ground.

Do deer like honey?

Not really. There's no solid evidence deer specifically seek out honey the way bears do. What deer do respond to is naturally occurring sugar in forage, which is why frost-sweetened brassicas and high-sugar mast like persimmons get hit hard in fall. Honey itself isn't a meaningful deer attractant.

How much does a soil test cost for a food plot?

Most land-grant university extension offices charge roughly $8 to $20 per sample, depending on the state and the test panel requested. Results include your current pH plus phosphorus and potassium levels, along with specific lime and fertilizer recommendations for the crop you're planting. It's the cheapest, highest-value step before planting anything.

Is it legal to plant a food plot and hunt over it?

In most states, yes, standing food plots are legal to hunt over and aren't treated as baiting. But rules on baiting, supplemental feeding, and what counts as a food plot versus a bait pile vary significantly by state, and some states restrict harvested grain left in piles. Always check your state wildlife agency's current regulations before planting or hunting a plot.

How big should a deer food plot be?

Kill plots meant to be hunted directly commonly run a quarter to half acre, small enough to keep deer calm and close. Destination or feeding plots meant to hold deer and provide bulk forage often run 1 to 5 acres or more. Many properties benefit from a mix of both types.

What's the difference between a fall and spring food plot?

Spring plots (clover, soybeans, sorghum) are planted after last frost and are built for summer nutrition and perennial longevity. Fall plots (brassicas, oats, wheat, rye) are planted 45-90 days before first frost and are timed to peak in palatability and tonnage right as hunting season and cold weather arrive.

Do I need to lime my food plot before planting?

If your soil test recommends it, yes, and most acidic soils do need lime, especially for clover which wants pH 6.0-7.0. Lime takes months to fully react and raise pH, so apply it as far ahead of planting as possible rather than at the same time as seed and fertilizer.

Sources

1. University of Tennessee Extension, Establishing Wildlife Food Plots: Clover requires soil pH near 6.0-7.0 and lime should be applied well ahead of planting
2. Mississippi State University Extension, Deer Food Plot publication: Sorghum and grain crops are used in fall/winter food plot blends for late-season energy and cover
3. Clemson Cooperative Extension, Brassicas for Deer Food Plots: Brassicas become more palatable to deer after frost due to starch-to-sugar conversion in leaves and bulbs
4. North Carolina State University Extension, Soil Testing Services: State soil testing labs provide pH and nutrient results with lime and fertilizer recommendations for a nominal fee
5. Iowa State University Extension, Herbicide Manual: Herbicide product labels specify rates and intervals that must be followed for site preparation before planting